Buying a used car from a private seller can save you thousands compared to dealers. But it also means you’re on your own when things go wrong.
I’ve bought four cars privately over the years. Made some brilliant deals. Also got completely stitched up once (more on that later).
Here’s everything I wish someone had told me before I started.
Let me guess what’s running through your head:
“What if the car’s stolen?” “What if it breaks down tomorrow?” “What if they’re lying about the mileage?” “What if I get scammed?”
These are all real risks. But they’re manageable if you know what to look for.
Here’s why buying from private sellers makes sense:
No dealer markup – You’re not paying for their fancy showroom. Real history – Private sellers usually know their car’s story. Room to negotiate – Most private sellers price to sell quickly. See how it’s been treated – Check their garage, other cars, general setup
But here’s the trade-off: No warranty protection no comeback if something’s wrong, you handle all the paperwork yourself
Don’t fall in love with a car you can’t afford. Get your finances sorted before you start looking.
Bank loan – Usually the cheapest option. a building society – Often competitive rates, Credit union – Great if you’re a member, Personal loan – Keep it separate from the car
Skip the “I’ll figure out payments later” approach. That’s how people end up with cars they can’t afford.
I see people buying sports cars when they need family haulers. Or massive 4x4s for city driving.
Ask yourself:
AutoTrader – Biggest selection, easiest to filter Facebook Marketplace – Local sellers, often cheaper Gumtree – Hit and miss, but some bargains Local classifieds – Older sellers who aren’t online much
Skip ads that:
Look for:
Don’t just arrange a viewing. Ask the right questions first.
“Why are you selling?” “How long have you owned it?” “Does it have full service history?” “Any known issues or recent work needed?” “When’s the MOT due?” “Are you the registered keeper?”
Listen to how they answer. Honest sellers give straight answers. Dodgy ones get defensive or vague.
“Will you take £X?” (before you’ve seen it) “What’s your bottom price?” “Can you deliver it?”
Save the negotiation for after you’ve inspected it.
Torch – Check for rust, damage Magnet – Test for body filler Phone – Take photos, make notes Friend – Second pair of eyes Cash deposit – If you want to secure it
Always view at the seller’s home address. This tells you:
If they insist on meeting elsewhere, walk away.
Start from a distance and walk around slowly.
Paint condition
Panel gaps
Tyres
Wear patterns
Electrics
Warning lights
Don’t worry if you’re not mechanical. Look for obvious issues:
Oil condition
Fluid levels
General condition
Check the seller has valid insurance that covers you. Make sure you’re legally allowed to drive it.
Starting
Steering
Brakes
Gears
Engine performance
Car park – Test steering, parking sensors, reversing camera Local roads – Check low-speed handling, brakes Dual carriageway – Test acceleration, high-speed stability Hills – Check engine power, clutch slip (manual)
V5C (Log Book)
MOT Certificate
Service History
HPI Check or Similar
MOT History Check
Tax Status
Check similar cars online
Use the inspection findings
Start with a reasonable offer based on:
Don’t lowball by 50% – You’ll just annoy them Do highlight specific issues – “The rear tyres need replacing soon” Be prepared to walk away – There are always other cars
Major mechanical issues they didn’t mention No paperwork or dodgy documentation
Seller gets aggressive about reasonable questions Your gut says something’s wrong
Trust your instincts. Cars are replaceable. Your money and safety aren’t.
Bank transfer – Safest for large amounts Cash – Bring exact amount, count it together Never – Personal cheques, payment promises, cryptocurrency
Fill out V5C section 6 (new keeper details) Get receipt with car details, price, date, both signatures
Take photo of seller’s driving licence Get spare keys and any codes/manuals Transfer insurance before you drive away
Don’t assume you’re covered – Check with your insurer Some policies give 7 days third-party cover for new purchases Get proper cover before collecting the car
What it is: Mileage has been wound back How to spot: Interior wear doesn’t match low mileage, service stamps seem rushed together Protection: Check MOT history online for mileage discrepancies
What it is: Car still has finance against it How to spot: Seller seems rushed, won’t let you do HPI check Protection: Always do finance check before paying
What it is: Car is stolen, seller has fake V5C How to spot: Meeting away from home address, V5C looks doctored Protection: View at seller’s home, check V5C carefully
Just because they write “sold as seen” doesn’t remove your legal rights. You still have protection under consumer law if they’ve misrepresented the car.
Register the purchase with DVLA Get proper insurance if you haven’t already Book MOT if due soon Service if overdue
Warning lights that appear after a few days Unusual noises that develop Handling changes as you get used to the car
Not legally required, but it shows you’re serious. I’d suggest 10% if you need time to arrange finance or collection. Get a receipt stating it’s refundable if the car isn’t as described.
No automatic right to return like with dealers. But you do have rights if the car was misrepresented. Keep all your correspondence and evidence of what they claimed.
You might have a case if the seller knew about the problem and didn’t tell you. But generally, private sales are “buyer beware.” This is why the inspection is so crucial.
Fill out the V5C section 6 with your details. Send it to DVLA (they’ll do this automatically now). You should receive your new V5C within 2-4 weeks.
Third-party warranties are available but read the terms carefully. Many have so many exclusions they’re not worth it. Better to put that money aside for repairs.
Legally yes, but you can’t drive it on public roads. Would need to be trailered to an MOT station. Only worth it if you’re getting a significant discount.
Sunday afternoons work well. People are relaxed, have time to show the car properly. Avoid Friday evenings when everyone’s rushing.
Three years ago, I fell in love with a BMW 3 Series. Gorgeous car, seemed like a bargain. Owner was charming, had all the right paperwork.
I skipped the HPI check because “he seemed honest.”
Two months later, the finance company turned up to repossess it. Turns out there was £8,000 outstanding finance. The seller had done a runner.
I lost the car and the money. Could have avoided it with a £20 check.
Don’t be me. Do the checks. Every single time.
Buying a used car from a private seller can save you serious money if you do it right. But it requires homework, patience, and the confidence to walk away from dodgy deals.
Take your time. Ask questions. Trust your gut. Do the paperwork properly.
The right car from the right seller is out there. Just don’t rush into the first one you see because you’re excited about buying a used car from a private seller and want to get it done quickly.
